Georgian climbers’ Himalayan ascent among 2017’s top climbs

Members of the 2017 Georgian climbing expedition to the Larkya Main peak. Photo: members of the expedition.
Agenda.ge, 18 Jul 2018 - 18:11, Tbilisi,Georgia

The conquering of a Himalayan peak by Georgian climbers Giorgi Tepnadze, Bakar Gelashvili and Archil Badriashvili has been named among the most notable ascents of the past year by the prestigious Piolets d'Or awards.

The three mountaineers reached the peak of the Larkya Main — located in the Manaslu region of the Nepalese Himalayas — in October 2017, becoming the first group to take its 6,425-metre ascent.

Even though the peak is not the highest in the region, its status as an unconquered destination meant a lack of information on safe and efficient approaches for the Georgians, posing a different kind of challenge.

The three mountaineers photographed after reaching the peak of Larkya Main. Photo: members of the expedition.

Their successful achievement is now listed among the 2017 Significant Ascents of the awards, alongside dozens of results by mountaineers in locations from India to Canada and Greenland.

The list notes the three climbers’ "first ascent via the southeast face” of Larkya Main, the feat that prompted the group to name their route the "Georgian path" in the Himalayas.

Conducting a 38-day expedition in Manaslu, the group took a long trekking route taking them to the approaches of the peak, before the three team members set up their base camp at 4,600m altitude.

The Georgian group set up for spending the night during their climb. Photo: members of the expedition.

Following a scouting of the ascent the climbers said they decided to take advantage of stable weather conditions in the area known for its unpredictable climate and launch their attempt without further rest.

The nine-day effort included six days of climbing the Category Six (highest difficulty) rock wall of Larkya, and required the three mountaineers to clear natural obstacles on their way.

Tepnadze, Gelashvili and Badriashvili cleared the rock wall on the sixth day of ascent and reached the 6,425m peak during late hours, marking the first path for Georgian adventurers in the location.