BBC: “The woman saving Georgia’s lost cheeses”

BBC has published an article written by Taylor Weidman about Georgia’s artisanal cheesemaking tradition, which was forced underground due to an oppressive Soviet-planned economy, though “the mother of Georgian cheese”, Ana Mikadze-Chikvaidze is dedicated to bring the ancient varieties back.

The first paragraph of an article reads about the history of Georgian cheese. Weidman recalls the story told by Ana Mikadze-Chikvaidze, according to which Mtskheta (historical city of Georgia) has archaeological evidence hinting that Georgians thousands of years ago may have been the first-known humans to make cheese. Over time, different regions of Georgia developed distinct techniques resulting in a veritable tapestry of cheese varieties.

Varieties of Georgian cheese: Photo: Taylor Weidman.

Author tells the history of Georgia’s unique cheeses due to 70 years spent under an oppressive Soviet-planned economy that limited which cheeses could be produced for general consumption and, therefore, forced artisanal cheesemaking underground.

Only four types of simpler Georgian cheeses were made during the Soviet-system: imeruli, sulguni, karkhnuli (which literally translates to “factory cheese”) and guda (completely unrelated to Dutch gouda).

The artisanal cheeses were forced underground likely because creating goods outside the Soviet system was frowned upon and many cheesemakers were afraid of being punished for it. And after seven decades in a system where only four types of cheese were readily available, most Georgians today are completely unaware that the country is home of dozens of other cheeses”, reads the article.

Ana Chikadze-Mikaidze, like many other Georgians, only knew about four types of cheese available at at stores. Once, when she has some conversation with Georgian ethnographer Tamila Tsagareishvili, first heard about these ‘underground’ cheeses.

By speaking to the older generations, she learned how the cheeses were made with the hope of reintroducing the varieties to the Georgian public. Photo: Taylor Weidman.

For years, Mikadze-Chikvaidze travelled to villages, interviewing elderly residents and searching for cheesemakers still carrying out the ancient processes. She learned how the cheeses were made.

Tenili, Guda, Narchvi, Dambalkhacho – these are some of the most popular artisanal cheeses that are being introduced in Georgia.

Mikadze-Chikvaidze  has found more than 60 cheese varieties from villages all over Georgia. There are now 10 shops and restaurants in Tbilisi (capital of Georgia) selling them, though, this is only the beginning of the story. Local businesses and Georgian government are eager to expand production and promote them on a larger scale.

Read the full story here.